Skye calls him the Buddha of surfing. As I begin to learn more about this Gerry Lopez and read more from him, I can see why. He listens, he observes, he’s patient and he’s kind….at least that’s my interpretation of him from what I read and have seen, since we haven’t yet met him.
A few years back he wrote a story, retelling his experience of a day of surf. A day of surf involves many emotions, many highs and occasionally a low. Gerry recounted this particular day quite exquisitely. It is currently featured on The Inertia’s blog this week. It speaks of patience, a deep knowing, a sixth sense, a feeling, of a connection to something so powerful. It speaks of following that feeling, and digging deep. As one surfer-reader put it: “we can each relate to the sometimes fear-inducing but always life-affirming aspects of the ocean. This story embodies a pinnacle of surfing – its ability to make us push ourselves and (re)discover something about ourselves which we carry through life, often silently.” I highly suggest reading the story! … The Big Score
Out in the ocean, I am beginning to be keen to that sense….you have to listen and you have to listen over and over again. You have to have your eyes wide open at all times. Skye knows it well and has earned that sense. He shares it with me which I am so grateful for, the experiences of others can help us along a new journey. But you have to know your limits, you have to respect…like the kid in the story…there have been plenty of times when I can feel the ocean shifting under me, the swell building and I look at Skye across the water, knowing my limits and say, shout or gesture: “I’m out! Mama ocean can change her mind in an instant. As Gerry says “Poseidon had struck his trident into the sea and the storm exploded“. It can happen that quick. The ocean is an incredible force! There is often a feeling that swells up inside with the swelling ocean. It can leave your mind blank and your body alive…an incredible feeling!
Surfing has changed my life and continues to do so. It is apart of Skye’s blood to the core and I am thankful that he has more often that not, been along with me on my journey. I don’t think that ‘newness’ sensation will ever wear off and I love it…that is truly one of the things I seek with movement, with being in Mocean! Learning something new is a trip…try something you have always wanted to and dive in!!!!
pic by Mocean365