Surfing has brought me so much. From humble beginnings growing up in a mill town and not even knowing people surfed in New England, to eventually dedicating much of my life to it. I started later than most die-hards so have had to make up for lost time. This has meant complete immersion and IContinue reading “In the fog”
Just wanted to share a video of a guy really experimenting with what goes on under the water vs. on it. here is his story courtesy of the theinteria.com, a great surf blog where i am a contributor. Late night at Frothers from Mark Tipple on Vimeo.
Pic Courtesy of The Inertia Skye calls him the Buddha of surfing. As I begin to learn more about this Gerry Lopez and read more from him, I can see why. He listens, he observes, he’s patient and he’s kind….at least that’s my interpretation of him from what I read and have seen, since weContinue reading “Gerry’s Story”